BTS: Thierry Mugler

April 14th, 20179:00 am @

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37292-letter-a-text-variants another installment of Behind the Show, I’d like to explore Thierry Mugler’s Autumn 2017 collection. As this semester’s theme of The WALK is The Blue Issue, it’s a fitting choice, since Mugler’s collection is dripping with blue.

Thierry Mugler is actually not currently the head designer of the brand. David Koma was appointed creative director in 2013. He was the mastermind of this whole blue operation. So what inspired it? I’d like to find out.

First steps to understanding, of course, is looking. So feast your eyes:

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First thoughts: David Bowie meets Star Trek. The Thierry Mugler brand is known for its structural silhouettes and almost avant-garde shapes. It dresses a strong, sexy and sophisticated woman. This collection was definitely no different. Structure was present with sharp shoulders and skewed skirts. There was an attractive mix of texture — patent leather, metallic pleats and soft sweaters. Colors included pitch black, frosty green, bright yellow and, of course, electric blue.  Bad-ass suits and a David Bowie-esque lightning pattern was featured.

The inspiration behind this collection seemed to be quite simple. Luke Leitch of Vogue Runway claims that Koma translated directly one of Mugler’s trademarks — the star design and jagged shape that can be seen on the Angel and Alien perfume bottles. Essentially, Koma was just echoing the brand image: cold, menacing and sexy.

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Although it is comforting to see Koma keeping true to the identity of the Mugler brand, some critics have found the show a bit flat, with no “wow” factors. Koma may be playing it too safe in order to not disappoint the Mugler fanbase by straying from what they know. Angelo Flaccavento of the Business of Fashion finds the collection a bit reflective of Saint-Laurent and Balmain. On the other hand, Leitch says the collection did have a straightforward concept, but with a powerful effect.

Overall, I thought the Thierry Mugler collection was still inspiring. If anything, it takes a lot of confidence to pull off such a bold and powerful look. This show may not have been particularly innovative, but it still encouraged fearless fashion.

Images courtesy of: Business of Fashion, Vogue Runway.